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Photographing landscapes is a popular pasttime for many photographers, and even those that aren't avid, usually will take a few at least in their lifetime. There are many reasons why landscapes are so popular; the beauty of nature, they seed the imagination, they are often awe-inspiring and interesting, and the sheer challenge of capturing the scene one sees onto a photo.

Ansel Adams is probably the most well-known twentieth century landscape photographer. There are a number of amazing early photographers from the nineteenth century whose work should be examined, such as T.H. O'Sullivan, and Francis Frith. There is discussion about what exactly is a landscape. Some would say that you can have no hand of man at all in the photo for it to be a true landscape. Others aren't so harsh. Some consider anything that has water or the ocean as "seascapes" or "waterscapes" and not true landscapes.  Then there are those that would even include "cityscapes" into landscapes, for they are part of the land we have made for ourselves-- an urban landscape.

So whatever you decide is your landscape, how do you transfer your emotions when you see a scene of beauty, into the end product that comes from your camera? We'll look at some hints and tips in this article.

When you see a landscape, there are some basic questions that should be asked.

1. What interests you the most in this scene? The water, the mountains, sky, trees, etc?

No matter how large or small the scene is before you, you need ONE important center of interest, otherwise your photo will lack impact. Whatever you choose as your main interest, that's what you need to concentrate on. Sometimes this means changing angles, moving your body, getting closer, pulling back. Make sure anything unwanted and extraneous is out of the shot.

2. Do you want more sky, land, or water?

Whatever is the more important element in your photo, this is what you need to focus on in your photo. If the sky is more important, then you need to capture more sky in your photo. If the sky is merely the horizon of the photo, then aim down, and capture more land or water.

3. What would be best for this landscape, horizontal or vertical?

A good rule of thumb is if the scene is expansive, broad, magnificent such as a mountain range's horizon, then use horizontal. If it seems to stretch from your toes into the distance, then vertical would be better.

4. Are colors, or shapes more important?

Shapes are sometimes what is the most interesting thing in your photo. Either the shapes themselves or how they interact with other shapes. Maybe some of the shapes are dark and some are light. Focus on that then. Aim your camera so you only capture those shapes. If you put other things in the photo you are adding unnecessary things that dilute the impact you wish to gain. Other times, the colors, such as the changing leaves in autumn or a blue sky against a colored building, might be something that brings interest to the photo. You will want to aim your camera then, so that those color-plays are the dominating force of that photo.

Note: A hint that some people do, is if you are going to shoot something that is popular, look at books or postcards and see how others have shot that same landscape. It may give you ideas, though it's best to always show your own creativity.

COMPOSITION

There are several things that must be considered when composing your landscape photo (or any photo for that matter). Good composition requires you to place the elements you've selected in an interesting, sometimes unusual way that catches the viewer's attention.

Balance
Consider the symmetry of a shot, for balance. Or perhaps you've chosen something more eclectic. No matter what you decide, there must be balance in the shot. Symmetrical shots are of course easily balanced... other shots must be composed in such a way that you bring balance to the shot as well. Use of color, light and dark, shadows, big and little shapes, distances and lines all can be used to bring balance to your photo.

The Rule of Thirds
One of the most important rules of photographers (or any artist) is the rule of thirds. Basically, you divide up your shot into thirds, imagining two lines dividing horizontally, and two lines vertically, giving you 9 blocks in your photo. Your centers of interest should be placed near the intersections of vertical and horizontal lines (there are four of them).

Perspective
Two good ways of creating a three-dimensional photo, expressing the depth of the landscape are using framing, lines and scale.

Framing is when you use something in the foreground to frame your distant subject, such as branches hanging over, or a foreground tree. You aren't necessarily framing the entire shot, even something to one side or nearly framing it in works.

Lines can be used to show distance. Things such as fences, rows of trees, a road, anything with lines can be used to both give harmony and perspective to your photo. Lines can also link your foreground with the background.

You can also use scale to show depth, showing the size between one subject and another. It shows distance. A mid-distance is the best usually. Too close, and it's not striking enough. Too far, and your scale subject gets swallowed--though if that is the plan, then by all means go for it. You can use anything for scale, from a person, to a flower, or bush, rock or boulder, or animal.

LIGHTING

Of the three types of lighting (frontlighting, sidelighting and backlighting), sidelighting is usually the most effective type of lighting for landscape photos. This type of lighting will include any light that comes from the sides, at any angle, just not from the direct front or directly behind. Shadows are important for landscapes, and frontlighting doesn't give you the shadows you need. Backlighting, while it gives lovely shadows, usually causes silhouettes. For landscape photos, this often means relying on nature, and good timing for the sunlight at the time of day you are shooting.

Time
Landscapes can appear dramatically different at different points of the day and night, and different times of year. Winter light is usually harsh, though not as bright. Summer light is rich and beautiful but hot. Fall and Spring light is bright and cheerful. Early morning, and late afternoon are the best natural light times, the light is rich and warm, and you can make best use of shadows.

Though you can't choose seasons, you can sometimes choose what time of day you'll be shooting. Early morning may give you misty backdrops, but the shadows are soft, the light gentle colors. Late afternoon gives you a clearer shot of the distance, though everything is warmer now, the color of the light more orange and warm, which may contrast against the blue of the sky.

If the skies are overcast and dull, then you can choose to leave out the sky in your landscape or use very little of it. Focus in on small areas. Even when the weather is inclement, dramatic and beautiful shots can still be taken.

Sometimes though, you are in the right place at the right time, and other times you have to make do with what light you are given, as you don't have the time to sit around and wait for lighting to be perfect. Ansel Adams would often wait an entire day, for the lighting and clouds to be perfect for his shots. We can't do that very often, some of us may never have that luxury.  Though thankfully, in our digital darkrooms of today, we can do so much to our photos to make them look as though we were there at the perfect time. Tones can be adjusted, colors, even removing things that you don't wish to be in the photo.

EQUIPMENT

Tripods are invaluable to the landscape photographer, for what can ruin a beautiful photo as assuredly as a shaking hand? Many landscape photos require the use of slow shutter speeds, in this case, a tripod is a necessity.

Films and Filters must be looked at as well. Some photographers of landscapes only use slide film. Some only wish to take color photos, and some only take black and white. This is your personal preference. There are a number of filters, both for the camera and filters you can use in your editing programs to give a beautiful look to your landscapes.


Sources:
Lynn Eodice, Sept 2004 "Photographing Landscapes"
from www.photographic.com

How To Take Good Pictures by Kodak

"Tips for Better Pictures" from the New York Institute of Photography
www.nyip.com
©2004-2009 =camerawhore
:iconcamerawhore:

Author's Comments

The first in what will become a series of basic "how-to's" for the *camerawhore Photography Group, though we hope that many will find the information useful.

Written by

If anyone wishes to submit a photography tutorial to the group, please send it via note to *camerawhore . Please be aware that it must be understandable, and you must claim any sources you have used to write the article.

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:iconkkart:
WOW! This is just awesome! Thanks so much for sharing these and putting this together for us!

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:iconmistressmoo:
Great job on this. Thanks for putting it up :D

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:icondiamondie:
Good article, though it would probably work much better with some images (like the tutorials of *photo-class. More detail and technical tips would also be nice, it's currently a bit vague. But I guess it's meant as an article and not a tutorial.
:iconamrocious:
Very good and informational thanks

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:iconsmall-onion:
Very good and informal this is definately being added to my :+fav:'s :!:

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:iconcamerawhore:
Thanks for the :+fav:, glad it's useful!

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:iconsaknika:
I am so glad that you wrote this, because I am going to use it as a source in my art report. Always good to have these things available!!!

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